Rafting in the Grand Canyon
By: John Kumiski
"That's a lot of money, John." Susan was telling me something I already knew. "It is. But I don't want to walk up to the South Rim, look over, and say 'I've been there.' I want to go down into it. And when will we ever get the chance to do this again?" I replied. The discussion ended with our deciding to go for it- thousands of dollars for three days on a raft on the Colorado River, in the Grand Canyon.
The earth keeps hurtling through space. July finally came, and we found ourselves on a commuter plane*, flying to the Bar 10 Ranch, a 250,000-acre cattle (and dude) spread on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. We went horseback riding, and Sue and I went on a nature hike. The temperature was 105. The ranch hands fed us well, then put on a show for us. I was prepared to be a heckler, but actually they were quite good- it was enjoyable and entertaining!
We'd spend the night there, then helicopter into the canyon to join an in-progress trip. We slept on cots on the deck, underneath the stars, an amazing experience. Stargazing has seldom been more spectacular for me- the darkest of skies, the Milky Way wheeling through the heavens, Scorpius, Sagittarius, meteors, satellites- I didn’t sleep that much but didn’t care. Who can sleep when the cosmos is unfolding before you? The stars were outrageous!
After breakfast we boarded helicopters and swirled down to the Colorado River. It shuttled us down into the canyon, seven at a time, dropping us off and taking out the passengers who had been on the raft for the previous segment. The entire trip takes two weeks, so most folks only go for a piece of the trip, shuttling in and out by chopper. Neither Susan nor I had ever been in a helicopter- dropping into the Grand Canyon in one was certainly a magnificent first experience.
Helicoptering into the Grand Canyon.
There were 26 of us on two big rafts, powered by outboard motors, herded by four guides. The guides proved to be resourceful, skillful, professional, and personable, among the finest I've ever been around. Their expertise helped make the trip a resounding success.
We spent the next three days on two rafts, running rapids (small ones), taking hikes, and just being awestruck by the canyon. The company we booked with was Western River Expeditions. I cannot see how anyone could have done a better job. The guides were superb, the food wonderful, the equipment great. It was freaking HOT (temperatures during the day hit 123 degrees), but that’s to be expected in the desert in July, isn’t it?
On the raft.
We slept outside the two nights we were down there. The first night the guide told us to soak our sheets in the river before trying to sleep. One of my flaws is often I think I know everything. So it was this time. My thinking was, soaking sheets in water before trying to sleep on them was a ridiculous idea.
Then we tried to sleep.
Far from cooling off at night, the canyon was just as hot as it was during the day. All those rocks store a lot of heat! When the wind blew, it felt like the breeze was coming off a forest fire. Next thing, I was down by the river in the dark, with our sheets, soaking them. Evaporation from those wet sheets cooled us off enough that slumber came easily. Who knew? The guides, obviously. Always listen to the guide!
Campsite in the Grand Canyon.
We came to a place where we got out and hiked to a small tributary stream. Water is precious everywhere, but especially so in the desert. All kinds of plant and animal life was along this tiny watercourse. Footprints of all kinds of animals were there in the wet ground. The stream ran through a cave that, because someone had thoughtfully left a ladder, we were able to climb into. There was a couple waterfalls in there. We all took turns taking showers. The water was wonderfully refreshing- the air was still hot!
Our campsite the second night had a cliff nearby, nothing death-defying, maybe 30 feet high or so. One of the guides took the children up there with life vests, and they started jumping off into the river, shouting and screaming, having a heck of a time. I'm not much on swimming, but it looked like so much fun I decided to try it. Until I stood on the edge of the cliff and looked down. Suddenly it seemed like a not-very-good idea.
Showering in the cave.
But the kids were lined up behind me, nine- and ten-year-old girls. Really, John? Jump, you baby! I jumped. It seemed like it took forever before I hit the water. It was my only jump of the day.
The last day, we motored through Lake Mead. The water level in the lake was low, and a big, ugly "bathtub ring" surrounded it. The guides gave us an ecology lesson about the consequences the building of the Hoover Dam had on the canyon. But much of the population growth in the west is supported by the water stored in the lake.
While crossing the lake, the guides pulled out a guitar and a mandolin and proceeded to play and serenade us, fine entertainment for the least interesting part of the trip.
The guides serenading us.
After crossing the lake, we all boarded a luxury coach for our trip back to Las Vegas. Our trip was too soon over. Susan and I both felt that the expense of taking this trip was a superb value, and would recommend it without reservation. An experience of a lifetime!
*The plane left from the commuter airport in Las Vegas. The temperature was 117 degrees, so I was "going commando" as they say. When I went to the bathroom, the zipper on my pants broke. My sewing kit was in my already-checked luggage, so I used a hand towel as a loincloth, over the front of my pants. I'm sure it looked weird, but there were quite a few children along- I didn't want or need any incidents!
Have you had a great out experience? Join Global Outdoors and write a review to tell everyone about it! We’re building the home for trusted reviews of outdoor experiences, outfitters, and guides.
