Traveling America By Van: Coastal Highway 1, The First Installment
By: John Kumiski
At seven in the morning it was Friday, foggy, almost drizzly, and fifty-two degrees. We wasted no time leaving Morro Bay State Park and heading to the town of Morro Bay, caffeine on our minds. We found an independent coffee shop, got the java, and hit the road.
That road was California Coastal Highway 1 (from here-on out known as Highway 1), one of the most famous drives in the country. Friends who had driven it told us not to take it south. We would learn why later this day.
At first it was a freeway. Then a sign said, "End Freeway." After a few traffic lights, the road was down to two lanes, the Pacific off to our left, uninhabited hills to our right. There was little traffic, the road nearly desolate.
What would we do without signs? Another said, "Elephant Seal Viewing Area." I pulled over, not expecting much. But I could see some swimming before I stopped the car.
An immature elephant seal relaxes on the beach along Highway 1.
WOW! There were dozens of them, swimming, barking, jousting, relaxing, splashing, doing what elephant seals do. Yet another sign explained that the big bulls (individuals weigh up to 5000 pounds) come ashore here to battle for dominance and females during December and January, something I would love to see. What we were looking at were females and juveniles, still very impressive animals. I could have stayed there a long time, but Susan reminded me we didn't have a place to stay that night. If we hoped to find one we needed to get moving. We did.
Elephant seals frolic in the surf along Highway 1.
The hills to our right got higher and higher, closer and closer. The ocean to our left got closer and closer, too. Soon I had trouble understanding how the road clung to the mountainside, nearly vertical in places. The ocean smashed onto rocks almost directly below us, sometimes a very long way down. Every time a car came up behind me I stopped at a pullout to let them pass. Apparently, the guy from Florida drives those roads pretty slowly!
We stopped and checked every state park campground we passed along the way. Every one of them was full. We could not help but notice that as the day went on, there was more and more traffic, too. We weren't concerned yet- it was not even mid-day.
We came to Big Sur. Now there were lots of cars. Susan saw a sign for a bakery. Of course, we stopped! The baked goods were of the highest quality and delicious, but what really impressed us was the garden they had. It was still overcast, perfect light for shooting flowers. I may have gotten a tad carried away, but the place (next to the Big Sur post office) was fantastic!
These flowers grew in a garden along Highway 1 in Big Sur. I don't know what any of them are, never having seen them anywhere else.
We stopped at Big Sur State Park to inquire about a campsite. "We're full- check back after three to see if there are any cancellations," we were told. We pulled off to consider our options, and heard the ranger tell people in the next two cars the same thing. If we stayed until three and did not get a site, we would be driving well into the night, an unpleasant prospect given the nature of the road. It was now Friday afternoon. The chance of finding a site at any of the other parks seemed as remote as Andromeda.
Garden flowers along Big Sur.
I wanted to stay and explore Big Sur, to photograph the ocean, to walk among the redwoods. The reality was, if we headed to San Leandro (where our son lives) right now, we might be able to beat the worst of the Friday afternoon traffic crush. Now with a mission, we hit the road again. No stopping to sight-see, no dawdling. Get to a big road as fast as possible, and get to Maxx's and Catalina's house tonight!
More Big Sur garden flowers. What are they?
After the narrow mountain roads, Interstate 880 during traffic time was a different kind of terrifying. Many drivers in California seem to think that the only way to get there is to go as fast as possible, weaving through traffic and being aggressive jerks. Then we hit stop-and-go traffic, slow and still slower. But the miles still passed and finally we were off the highway, climbing up hilly little residential roads, arriving at our son's house.
Redwood trees like this one are plentiful in Big Sur State Park, along Highway 1.
A joyful reunion? Oh Yes! We watched Maxx and Catalina get married on a telephone during the pandemic, not able to travel then to personally attend. It was the first time we'd seen them in a couple of years, and it was good, a deep, solid feeling of good. Susan and I were estatic!
The first phase of our journey was over. I was curious as to how the next phase would unfold.
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