Traveling America By Van: CA Highway 1, North from San Francisco

by: John Kumiski

After nearly two months of exploring the area around San Francisco, Susan and I were ready for the next portion of our adventure- the return trip to Florida! We left Maxx and Catalina at midmorning one Sunday, heading for California Highway 1 north and Salt Point State Park.

A small, clean, and neat church along Highway 1.

There are many things I will miss about California. The freeways won't be one of them! It seems that, when the traffic isn't slow and go, or stopped altogether, the speed limit is regarded merely as a suggestion. Many drivers operate like they are in a race, driving very fast, weaving and dodging through the more reasonably operated cars. We were glad to get off I-580 and get on a secondary road.

Flowers grow in profusion alongside the road here.

Passing through vineyards and cattle pastures, the road gently rose and fell, twisted and turned, and in its own sweet time delivered us to Highway 1. Significant coastal fog greeted us. When we were low to the water we could see the sea. When the road rose, though, the only sea we could see was a sea of fog. The cliffs, and the Pacific far below, were hidden from view, both a good and bad thing. The scenery along here is both spectacular and scary!

I'd planned all our drives in this portion of the trip to be short. We wanted to be able to explore little towns and enjoy the coast, not just drive all day. Less than three hours after starting our drive, we arrived at Salt Point State Park. The ranger at the gate directed us to our campsite. After finding it and establishing residence, we went to the shore.

Due to that very unusual erosion patterns in the rocks (called tafoni), we found their textures stunning. Because of the fog, the light was soft, perfect for photography. After an initial burst of creativity expended itself, we went for a walk along the coastal trail. 

Tafoni sandstone, Salt Point State Park.

Gulls wheeled, crows strutted, songbirds darted into and out of low bushes. Waves pounded the rocks. Here and there, fishermen clung to those rocks, casting lines in hope of a dinner. We ran into two flycasters headed back to their vehicle, their fishing finished. Using 8-weight rods and sinking lines, they had taken several black rockfish from the surf. Their fly of choice was a size 1/0, white Clouser minnow. I thanked them for the information, and we continued our separate ways.

Susan takes pictures, Salt Point State Park.

Our walk was an out and back. Near the end of the out portion, the fog began breaking up. We had sunshine for the return trip. Between the sea and the mountains there were fields, and forests, and random piles of large rocks. Chunks of fog floated by, low to the ground, adding an air of mystery. We got back to the car too soon, early enough to hop in and explore other portions of the park. They were all interesting, but none as much as that first place.

After dinner we found ourselves at that first shore place again. I wanted to photograph the sunset. While waiting for the earth to spin into position, we watched the sea, hoping to see a whale. Not expecting much, wasn't I surprised when I spied a spout! I waited until I saw a second one, then told Susan, "There's a whale spouting out there." She didn't believe me, and missed the next two, but then she saw it, too. A family came by, heading for the coastal trail, and we pointed it out to them. They thanked us! We watched it until it disappeared in the distance.

A formation of brown pelicans flies over the Pacific.

I then got my pictures, staying until it was too dark to make an exposure.

The morning found us heading north again. The highway was breathtakingly lovely, ocean on one side, mountains on the other, hamlets and farms here and there. One could travel a road like this forever, if the road was long enough. This one was not, though. The road turned toward the northeast, away from the coast and into the mountains.

The going here was crazy. The road had enough hills and dips and twists and turns to break a snake's back. We were not in a hurry, but the going was really slow. The views consisted of heavily forested hills rising up steeply, always in our immediate vicinity. It was a perfect road for a standard transmission sports car. For our van, not so much!

A fisherman tries his luck along the shoreline at Salt Point State Park.

After dinner we found ourselves at that first shore place again. I wanted to photograph the sunset. While waiting for the earth to spin into position, we watched the sea, hoping to see a whale. Not expecting much, wasn't I surprised when I spied a spout! I waited until I saw a second one, then told Susan, "There's a whale spouting out there." She didn't believe me, and missed the next two, but then she saw it, too. A family came by, heading for the coastal trail, and we pointed it out to them. They thanked us! We watched it until it disappeared in the distance.

I then got my pictures, staying until it was too dark to make an exposure.

The morning found us heading north again. The highway was breathtakingly lovely, ocean on one side, mountains on the other, hamlets and farms here and there. One could travel a road like this forever, if the road was long enough. This one was not, though. The road turned toward the northeast, away from the coast and into the mountains.

Dusk on the Pacific coast, Salt Point State Park.

The going here was crazy. The road had enough hills and dips and twists and turns to break a snake's back. We were not in a hurry, but the going was really slow. The views consisted of heavily forested hills rising up steeply, always in our immediate vicinity. It was a perfect road for a standard transmission sports car. For our van, not so much!

We eventually reached the junction of Highway 101. Highway 1 ends here. For the next several days, Highway 101 would be our principal path.

As apprehensive as I often felt on Highway 1, I'm going to miss it. It was my favorite road in California, and one of the best of our entire journey. So far...

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